Notes from the Classroom

Larry:
I've learned a few interesting things teaching university students in Russia:

1. Students come to the final who have never come to class. I guess a final is like throwing a great party, when more guests come than you expect.

2. Students who took my final in English don't necessarily understand English. This makes grading a breeze.

3. One handy cheating tip I learned from them is that if you tell the professor you need an English dictionary, you can then stuff a piece of paper in it with key points you will be tested on.

Crosswalk Hell

Alison:
My biggest fear in Moscow is getting hit by an aggressive driver while I'm walking to school with Sasha. The drivers frequently ignore crosswalks and sometimes even speed up.

Today's Moscow Times has an article on two pedestrians being mowed down in crosswalks. Roman Zhirov, an employee of the Interior Ministry, pulled into the lane of oncoming traffic to pass a car that had stopped at the crosswalk to let a pregnant woman pass. After Zhirov struck the woman, he raced away, but eyewitnesses wrote down his license plate number. He was never prosecuted despite leaving the scene of the crime.

http://www.moscowtimes.ru/article/1016/42/377460.htm

BTW, the fine for driving through a crosswalk in Moscow and cutting off a pedestrian? 100 rubles or about $3. That's about to change to 1,000 rubles or $30.

Some Themes are Universal

Living in Moscow, we've let Sasha watch too much tv. Part of it is the weather, and not having kids in the building to play with. So her new best friend while we've been here has been Nick Jr., as in "Nickelodeon for kids." We try to keep her busy with activities--yesterday she had a playdate with a Dutch classmate--but weekends are the hardest.
Last night, we hid the remotes and went out. The babysitter reported that Sasha wasn't happy. That mood has continued into this morning.
We're going cold turkey today. Or so we hope. Stay tuned.


- Larry

Love note from the City of Moscow

We received a note from the city informing us that our hot water will be shut down on 25 May. I, naive woman that I am, thought this meant we will be without water on 25 May. However, I was informed tonight at dinner, that no,no, the hot water shortage will BEGIN on 25 May and can last oh, 2 and possibly 3 weeks. I can hardly wait for the heat wave to correspond to the arrival of no showers in the VDnK part of the town.

The good news: our friends in other parts of the city will have hot water and I guess we will traipse across town, rubber duckies in tow for showers. BTW, this also means no dishwasher or clothes washer.


- Alison

May 9 Memories

May 9 in Russia is a combination of Memorial Day and July 4. We decided to skip the big military hardware parade, and went to a local park for a picnic. The weather was fine, the natives were friendly, and we stumbled upon a dance troupe performing in traditional costumes and military uniforms. We felt like we'd stumbled upon something real--the audience sang along to traditional tunes, and everyone seemed joyful.

On another joyful note, we're leaving three weeks from today.

Free Blog Counter
Poker Blog

Center stage

Sasha finally had her chance to participate in a school performance - they have one every 3 weeks or so. Thus far, she's sat on the sidelines, but as you can see from the video, this time she really got her groove on.

Here's our darling Американская девушка - American Girl


- Alison

Metro Blues

If you ride the Metro as many hours a day as I do - between school pick up/drop off, grocery shopping and just general getting around - a certain crabbiness can set in. Especially when caught in a hailstorm which soaked me thru the skin despite a raincoat, umbrella and hat. It was the puddles that did me in. I suppose there are storm sewers somewhere in Moscow, but maybe they are all plugged up with beer and vodka bottles. There's no recycling here, so hey, why not throw your empty adult beverage container in the gutter?

But I digress, back to my metro snark. In spring, the doors come off the Metro entrances. Hurray! Sasha was always getting smacked by the two way swinging doors. Now we only have to worry about a single door. But spring also brings heat which amplifies the odorific tendencies of Muscovites - and I'm sorry to say it, but it's mostly smelly men. So it is with this delicious co-mingling of aromas - vodka, garlic and BO that I now ride squished like a sardine with my fellow riders. Sweat and garlic are natural so I can deal with it. In fairness, the city is shutting down the hot water throughout the city during a two week rotation. But vodka at 9:30 AM, there's something just not right about that.

Everyday, I dutifully wait my turn to be jostled while riding up the ten minute escalator from my VDkH station to the smokey underpass which leads to our apartment. Normally I am not carrying two very heavy bags of groceries. Normally, I don't have to wait for two trains to pass in order to squeeeeze into a tiny space for the four station ride from Prospect Mira to VDkH. And normally, I don't give a shit about the fact that middle escalator is **never** working in the afternoon. But today, I cared.

Deeply.

I became a metro rage-aholic watching the red capped middle aged meany who "runs" the escalators or whatever she is pretending to do while watching all those TV monitors. I mean, hello, there are people pushing and shoving elderly and young children to ride up the single escalator while the middle one sits there operational, but gated off. Let's say for arguments sake you want to I dunno *walk* up the escalator. Nyet. let's say they are trying to save energy, why can't I just walk? Nyet.

I believe it is a sport here in Russia: how can I say no in as many ways to cause as much aggravation to the asking party as possible. Today I lost. Tonight I will drink a beer and forget.

And the Winner is...

Gabriella S. of Mountain View, California. The answer is "Charles de Gaulle" - Gabriella will be receiving a care package from Moscow containing borscht, blinis and brown bread. Congratulations!

Lost in Transliteration, with your host Alekeevskaya Trubekskaya

It's Moscow Jeopardy. Under the category "Famous French Leaders" for 250 rubles,
here's your answer, and a picture clue: "He was a famous French general who went on to a successful political career." Answer is in picture two at the very top. First contestant to ring in successfully, wins a "Nestle for Men" candy bar. Winner will be announced soon!

I, Yoda - Mom Tips

It was inevitable that at some point in the journey, we would become the sought after experts. We have been approached by several new Fulbrighters and expats-to-be. I identify with the panic in their emails - that was me back in January.

So to all those would-be Muscovites with small kids, whether by choice or not, I have prepared this random list. Or is you aren't planning to come, you can read along and think "boy am I lucky to live in America."

1. Yes, Moscow is hideously expensive. Yes, you can buy most of what you need, but it will be expensive and hard to find. Target is not in Russia.

2. Staying warm during the long Russian winter. Buildings are extremely overheated so leave your bulky sweaters at home and bring lots of T shirts. In Feb & March, you will be sweating as never before. People run their air conditioners in the winter here!

== > Go to landsend.com and buy your kids the heaviest weight jackets and pants. While on the site, buy 4-6 pairs of mittens in the same color and same design per child. Kids lose their mittens. Mittens are not easily found here. For adults, you can buy warm coats here - women wear fur on the Metro - but they will be expensive. If you have a fur coats lurking in the closet, this is the time to wear bring it out - apologies to PETA. You will thank me one freezing morning for this advice.

3. Bring along your favorite cosmetics and anything you truly love from Walgreens this includes toothpaste and artificial sweetener. Peanut butter is available, but if you want organic Trader Joe's brand, bring it. Lots of it.

4. You are about to become a sherpa extraordinaire.

== > Go the Container Store and buy the lightweight, foldable nylon bags. You will be using this bag for everything. While you're there, consider the gallon Brita filter container to ship over. There is no recycling in Moscow, you shouldn't drink the tap and it's a major drag to schlep huge bottles of water up to your apartment.

5. Schools - we never really figured this out particularly well. The best "advice" I can give: live close to your school and make your working spouse commute a longer distance. On Feb 6th, when you haven't seen the sun for six weeks and it's icy and bitterly cold, you will thank me for this advice as well. Of course you will be cursing Moscow by that point and forget all about me, but I understand.

6. Language. Russians do not speak or read English - well the youngins do, but they're too busy smoking and drinking to help you out. Do yourself a BIG favor. Invest in at least 10 tutor led sessions. From a Muscovite if at all possible. You do not want to land here an illiterate. If you cannot read Cyrillic, you best learn how before you arrive. Street signs, food packaging and everything else is in Cyrillic. See our previous blog on eating *liver* pancakes when we thought it was *potato.*

The Russians have been doing it this way since the 8th century and they don't give a damn what you think.

7. Join AWO - American Women's Org. These are a great group of women, most professional expats. They have special interest groups, are very open & friendly and are know where to get everything from a good obstetrician to aluminiun foil. They are empathetic and have really saved me. They drink wine at lunch, what more do you need to know?

8. Relax about medical care. If I could, I would bring my Moscow doctor home with me, he's fantastic. The new moms tell me their birthing experience was better here than in the US. This is another reason to join AWO.

9. Also relax about "maintenance issues." Russian woman know all about mani-pedis, hair color, cuts, etc. It can be a fortune, but they are experts and will not rush through your appointment. And it's possible to find an English speaking salon.

10. Do not watch Dr. Zhivago before boarding the plane - you will only freak yourself out. Keep in mind it was published in 1957, but not in Russia until 1988. There is a reason for this.

Look out for tips for Men in an upcoming blog installment.

Product of the week

Collect the whole set! This came home in Sasha's birthday party favor bag.

Free Blog Counter
Poker Blog

A Display of Military Muscle

Sasha and I (Larry) were behind schedule this morning as we walked
to her school. Two blocks from our destination, we were ready to duck into the pedestrian underpass on the Garden Ring, one of the major traffic arteries through Moscow. But as we descended the steps, a police officer blocked our way. I then noticed that there was no traffic on the Garden Ring, and barricades were up. Orange trucks blocked traffic from entering the street. It looked like a parade (or a coup?) was about to begin.

Did I mention that it was also raining, our umbrella was broken, and we were getting drenched?

Victory Day, which celebrates the end of World War II, is celebrated here on Saturday with major displays of military might. But armaments have been on display all week. On Tuesday, Alison called from downtown Moscow to report that jets were flying low- really low--over downtown. We guessed they were practicing.

Today's parade may have also been a dress rehearsal for Saturday. There were hummers, tanks, and countless numbers of gargantuan missiles being towed down the Garden Ring. From time to time,
the display of weapons was interrupted by jeeps holding four of five military officers who looked as stiff as their uniforms. Having been raised on a steady diet of Rose Parades in Pasadena, I expected the officers to wave, or acknowledge the crowd. But no air kisses here. The audience watched without responding, although many took pictures with their cellphones.

Sasha was oblivious to the charms of military hardware. "I'm going to miss my snack!," she told me over and over again.

"What do you want me to do?," I said, sounding like my own father. I urged patience, as thick clouds of smoke from the war machines wafted into the crowd.

Ten minutes later, it was over. And Sasha made it to school in time for her morning crackers and apple juice.

Why (I think) Russian women wear panty hose

Warning - this blog is highly frivolous.

Yesterday, I finally got tickets to visit to Armory museum where the thrones, gifts, jewelry and carriages from the Tsars are housed. I am about to link together this visit to the Armory and pantyhose, so hang with me.

Let me start by saying I am huge admirer of "important jewelry." However, at the Armory, it's impossible not to be taken aback by the sheer gaudiness of the collection--huge 100 ct. emeralds in a bible cover, gold covered carriages, horse harnesses bedecked in silver and pearl. All fun, but a little over the top. Which made me think about how Muscovite women dress.

Sorry, but I need a quick history detour here. Back in the 17th & 18th centuries, Peter the Great dragged Russia out of the medieval times to such an extent that by his death in 1725, Russia was considered a leading eastern European state. He wouldn't allow anyone in court to wear anything but Westernized dress.

But of course, as shown in the Armory clothing collection, this was the Russian interpretation of the latest French fashions. So... 150,000 pearls are sewn on a dress and gold thread is on the 15m long train and the lace took five years to spin in Brugge, etc, etc. You get the idea. Fast forward to 2009.

Throughout the cold winter months, I was convinced the pantyhose/thong undergarment torture combo was to keep warm. If you have to wear long johns, why not tights which are far prettier? I know about the thongs based on my locker room experiences, so trust me on this one.

But the weather is now scorching and humid and the tights have morphed into pantyhose. Now I haven't voluntarily worn pantyhose since 1991 when I moved to California. It's hot. It's itchy and frankly, the nude variety is really dated. So why all the panty hose here?

My current theory is that Russian fashionistas, like their Tsarina sisters of bygone eras, like a certain line, a certain over the top interpretation on the current fashion. A trip, short cut of skirt or trim trouser and frankly, visible panty lines will simply not do. And you've got to wear something on your feet to keep one's four-inch stilletos from forming blisters. So VOILA! Nude pantyhose on all the ladies from young to old, from pencil skirts to skintight jeans.

Having worn pantyhose in a hot NYC, I can appreciate the sacrifice it takes and I'm sure the Russian men sincerely appreciate the effort.

Swinging through the Baltics

Milda - the statue of Latvian independence. In Soviet times, you could be sent to the Gulag for putting a wreath at her feet. These days, there are Latvian soldiers guarding the base and yes, flowers. Lots of musicians seranading her on May Day.

Downtown Riga, riding a bronze pig

At the Latvia Ethnographic Museum. the interior of a traditional Latvian home

Sasha and her new friend, Pasha, on the top bunk during the 15-hour train ride from Riga to Moscow

Larry here:

Back from a week in the Baltic states. We made it to two out of three, Estonia and Latvia. Lithuania will have to wait. It was a family vacation, meaning we saw every swing and slide in the two countries. Latvia wins for variety of swingsets, and Estonia wins for best swingset close to our hotel. In Estonia, continuing the family theme, we stayed at a hotel attached to a waterpark.
We made it to one cafe/restaurant in Riga, Osiris, that we'd seen in the New York Times' 36 Hours in Riga. But due to a parental discretion advisory, decided to skip the restaurant there called Hospitalis, where pink-haired nurses serve patients at hospital tables.
How lucky am I to be able to muse about such everyday matters. We took a train back to Moscow through country that must have been familiar to my Sokoloff grandparents, close to the Belarussian and Polish shtetls of their early 20th century childhoods. My grandparents got out just in time, and many other relatives perished in the World War II Holocaust in this region. It looked so peaceful on a warm spring night, with aging wood barns and cabins still dotting the landscape. But it was a place my grandparents rarely were nostalgic about. My grandmother recalled hiding in the woods during World War I, and my grandfather remembered the hardships that led him to leave for America. Two generations later I am back, thinking of them and the choices they made.